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May 1, 2009
Diners reducing size of meat portions, opting for healthier side dishes
"Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants."
This is Michael Pollan's famous quote in his book "In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto" (Penguin). And it looks very much as if some people are sitting up and taking notice.
Earlier this year, Mark Bittman, food writer and columnist for the New York Times, also urged readers of his book "Food Matters: A Guide To Conscious Eating" to switch to a mainly plant-based diet, eating not only for their health, but also to help heal the environment. He cited the United Nations report "Livestock's Long Shadow," which states global livestock production is responsible for about one-fifth of greenhouses gases. It's a trend that appears to be catching on.
"It's just like the whole eat local trend, where there are so many different reasons to sign on, whether it's the humane treatment of animals; don't eat giant steaks, instead use red meat as an ingredient in your meals," says Jeff Crump, executive chef at the Ancaster Old Mill in Hamilton, ON.
In their newly released cookbook "Almost Meatless" (Ten Speed Press), Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond of Philadelphia say they are already seeing changes in the way people are eating.
Manning, a restaurant critic for Philadelphia magazine, says she recently watched as seven diners in a local steak house ordered only two to three steaks to share, but also many vegetable and grain-based side dishes to round out the meal.
"I think restaurants will eventually come around to this," she says. "And I think it's almost meatless eaters who are bringing that style to the forefront."
Patrick Engel, executive chef at The Good Earth Cooking School in Beamsville, ON, says that the biggest challenge is to put theory into practice when it comes to the way North Americans view what's on their plates.
"We are really hooked on meat, and we are the only culture that puts it first and foremost," he says. "When you look at Vietnamese cuisine, it's a lot of vegetables, rice noodles and tiny portions of meat, and that's the same in many countries around the world."
Desmond says she believes that a lot of chefs are becoming more conscious of the environmental impact that comes out of their cooking, whether or not they are going into it with the intent of decreasing the amount of meat on their menu.
"When I travel around the country and eat out, I find more and more menu items are inherently shorter on meat," she says. "Some establishments are also introducing a lot more vegetables and grains, and other non-meat ingredients, to their bill of fare."
Crump says he wholeheartedly agrees with the notion of downsizing the amount of meat on the plate.
"I'd rather see a really amazing five-ounce filet as opposed to a giant 15-ounce rib eye," he says. "It fits into my way of thinking."
He says that his restaurant doesn't serve a lot of steaks. "We spend more time on what is under the meat because there are tons of dishes designed without it, like pasta and risotto."
Desmond defends "Almost Meatless", saying that it is not about meat, but a book about thinking differently about meat.
"We are not saying 'don't eat meat.' We are saying decrease your consumption of it. Choose higher quality, just less of it."
© 2009 The Canadian Press
